While researching this kit, our objectives were clear: improve the underwhelming tail light performance without compromising the tail/brake light contrast, achieve optimal front marker light brightness, significantly enhance brake light responsiveness, and meaningfully upgrade reverse light visibility. We're pleased to report that this kit successfully meets—and even exceeds—these goals.

Kit includes:
• (2) LED front turn signal bulbs
• (2) LED rear turn signal bulbs
• (2) LED tail light bulbs
• (2) LED brake light bulbs
• (2) LED reverse light bulbs
• (2) LED side marker bulbs
• (2) LED license plate light bulbs
• (2) Resistors*
• New turn signal relay (necessary for LEDs to function properly)
• Complete installation instructions

*A note on converting to LED: We have found that most of the time, our Exterior LED Bulb Kit functions as designed. However, some vans exhibit funky turn signal behavior, but fear not— We have a fix! We include a  and a new turn signal relay to remedy the issue a small percentage of folks might experience.

Why switch to LEDs? LEDs outperform incandescent bulbs in every key area: brighter light output, instant on/off response, vastly longer lifespan, and—most importantly—dramatically lower power consumption. This lower power draw translates to a much lower amperage requirement, which is especially beneficial for older vehicles.

In classic vehicles, aging wiring, terminals, and sockets naturally develop higher resistance over time. Because LEDs require less amperage, there's less voltage drop across the system, meaning more voltage reaches the light socket. Higher voltage at the socket improves lighting reliability—one of the main reasons vehicles transitioned from 6V to 12V systems in the first place.

The bottom line? With LEDs, your stop, turn, reverse, and marker lights are far more likely to work exactly when you need them to.

PDF Instructions

Specifics

Techy stuff, for those of you that care:

Comparing current draw (in amps) between the stock bulbs and our new LEDs.

Fitment/Function Notes

Fitment note: If your vehicle has factory-installed cruise control, a minor modification to the cruise control wiring harness is required. There is a RED/BLACK wire that runs from the cruise’s main control unit, through the foot pedal-activated canceling switches (one at the brake pedal of all vehicles, and an additional one at the clutch pedal of manual-shift vehicles), and then up to one of the brake light pressure switches on the brake master cylinder. Cut the wire between the switches and the master cylinder (on manual-shift vehicles it should come from the clutch pedal switch) and ground the end coming from the switch locally—the screw that fastens the bracket for the canceling switches to the body of the vehicle is a convenient location. Be sure to tape or otherwise protect the end of the wire coming down from the master cylinder and secure it out of the way to prevent a short, as this wire receives power when the brake lights are activated. This step is necessary because the canceling switches get their ground signal through the brake light bulb filaments, which is not possible with LED bulbs. Your cruise control will not work without this modification, as it will always think that the clutch or brake is being depressed.

Function note: Due to the design of the LED drivers that power the bulbs, some radio frequency interference is inevitable. In our experience, this interference is only noticeable when the radio reception is marginal, and the brake, turn, or reverse lights are engaged. At this time, there is no "fix" for this issue. In practice, we have not found this to be a big issue; however, if you happen to listen to the radio a lot in an area with poor reception and you are turning/braking frequently, this could bug you a bit.

Function note #2: Many non-powered trailer wiring converters are not compatible with LED tail light bulbs. If you are experiencing both rear turn signals flashing concurrently, along with your rear running lights illuminating dimly, or other tail light oddities, the issue is likely a bad converter. The converter we sell has proven to work reliably. Alternatively, any powered-style converter should be compatible.